Fountain Square: Then and Now, Part 1

Fountain Square: Then and Now, Part 1

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These images show historic Chippewa Street at Main as it was in its final days back in the early 1980's and what is there now. Prior to the block long development known as Fountain Plaza there was a rag-tag collection of buildings dating from the mid to late 1800's on this site. At the time of this vintage view the block was slated for renewal. The portion of downtown a few blocks south of here was still quite active with retail. In comparison this area stood out as extremely derelict.

Prostitution and adult entertainment venues were the norm here. The buildings were worn and it would probably be safe to say that not a soul saw any value in keeping them. Big plans in the eighties brought about massive change. The now defunct Buffalo Savings Bank and Buffalo's former Liberty Bank erected new headquarters buildings on each side of Main. Liberty Bank's building occupied the south end of this block and plans called other major buildings on the site to fill up the north end. All the old buildings were eventually cleared leaving an empty lawn for several years until the twin tower Key Center was constructed in the early 90's.

DSC_0364.JPG

Key Center borders Chippewa with a fairly mundane facade of concrete walls, loading docks and ventilation grills. At the time this building was designed and built Chippewa had yet to become the active (and attractive) nightlife Mecca that we know today. This building exhibits what is sometimes referred to as defensive architecture. It treats Chippewa as a throw away street. It ignores the possibilities of the street's pedestrian nature by placing building services here. It may have seemed to the designers to be a natural choice to have loading docks on what was then probably seen as the least attractive and even dangerous building frontage. At the time this building was constructed the idea of a class A office building on Chippewa was quite radical.

Designers planning a project like this today in this spot most likely would have had a very different attitude toward Chippewa. Would they have included retail space? Would there be a restaurant in place of an exhaust grill? Perhaps the historic buildings would not have been torn down at all. Places change in ways we can never fully anticipate and decisions are often mad in reaction to what is current rather than what could be. Overall this project is probably more of benefit to the city than a liability and even with its cold Chippewa frontage it may have also contributed some small measure to the revival of that street. We should not forget what we have lost though. Look closely at this forlorn street-scape of 1980. There is tremendous richness of activity and detail in that image. Even simple things like the way the shoe shine parlor is a structure formed by filling in an alley are incredibly interesting--layers of things like that are what create rich urban environments. Until we recognize these valuable and subtle parts and pieces of our organically created urban streets we will never be successful with the buildings we chose to replace them with.

Rock Harbor

What Others Have To Say

  1. Denizen

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 11:23

    Steel, thanks for bringing this forgotten late phase of urban renewal (removal) to our attention.

    As an architect, could you tell us the feasibility of eventually converting these loading docks into storefronts?

    Overall, I have mixed feelings on what this area has become in relation to what it was.

    One side of me loves the clean, contemporary city center feel of Fountain Plaza, while the other side realizes the potential the humble, human-scaled mixed-use urban fabric that proceeded this monolithic office complex. We will never get back those skinny low-rise buildings. We've forgotten how to build anything small downtown.

  2. sbrof

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 11:45

    great article, I love how people seemingly forget that things can change, what is there now, is now what always has been and not what always will be. We as designers should understand this in Urban settings.

    A great follow up of this would be the parking garage across the street... these two buildings, and their lack of life essentially block (or severely hinder) the activity of Chippewa from ever expanding to and past Main Street.

  3. davvid

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 11:59

    Its never too late to redesign the chippewa facade of this building.

  4. allthingsbuffalo

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 13:08

    great post, always been facinated by the key towers. do you know who the architect was?

  5. RPreskop

    4 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 13:34

    First of all we need to permanently abolish the term "human scale" because all buildings and structures are designed and created by humans. As for the office towers and spacious plazas of the fountain plaza redevelopment, they are definately a major aesthetic and architectural improvement over the seedy, dilapidated slums that they replaced in the early 80s. As for building small, dammit all Buffalo is a major city not a little country hamlet. If you love small, skinny, insignificant buildings all over the place then probably it is time you to look at exurban locations like Elma, Marilla, Alden, Sanborn, Pendleton, or Clearence Center. It is time for Buffalo to design, build, and act like a true major city and not like little house on the prairie.

  6. Charger

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 13:49

    While the basic point about the Chippewa Street facade of Key Center is substantially valid, the picture is somewhat misleading because it shows only the loading dock areas. There is also a significant public entrance to the building and two large areas of windows, albeit starting at or slightly above eye level, behind which are retail banking operations of Key Bank and First Niagara Bank.

    The build out of this site with a single building created some not particularly well resolved grade change issues, because Main Street is/was higher than Franklin, particularly closer to Huron.

    The Franklin facade of what is currently the Bank of America building is actually much less sidewalk/pedestrian friendly, having nothing but loading dock doors and masonry wall, with no windows until well above the street level. See also the two story parking ramp at Franklin and Chippewa across Chippewa from Key Center for a less inviting street wall.

  7. rlesch999

    5 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 13:51

    Steel the overall point being made in your article is a good one. We should never forget what once was, history is very important.

    My issue is the tone your article takes. It comes across as anti-growth or development to me. To think that the overall commercial and economic growth that took place in this area "also contributed some small measure to the revival of that street." is crazy. It was probably one of the driving forces to the revival of Chippewa. The fountain plaza area which consists of M&T, B.O.A and the Key Towers employs thousands of people. These people need places to go to lunch, dinner, happy hour etc... Business men realizing that this area no longer just consisted of prostitues and junkies took a chance and created something great for a bad area of the city. So yes we can look at the building know and say "What were they thinking" but please dont tell me that it was better before.

    You also realize that buildings need service enterances. If they would have placed them on the pearl street facade people would be complaining about that also. You cant have everything!

    I am just glad this happened when it did, becasue if this was being developed today our buddy Tim T. would have it in court faster than you could have found a prostitute on this once derilict street.

  8. platt4

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 14:06

    Charger- Franklin? I think you mean Pearl. :)

  9. Andrew

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 14:24

    This article proves that crappy neighborhoods CAN completely change in just a few years.

  10. Hospitable

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 14:25

    Very interesting... my parents where always nervous when I went downtown to the Chippewa area because thats where they went to pick up hookers in their day. I've never seen what was there before the key towers and founatin plaza.

    I like the slim buildings statement Rpreskop... go to the country for that crap, we are a major city its time to start acting like one... development is development and preservation is called for some times, but is there a question on whether or not we're better of now then we were back then.

    Empty buildigs, hookers, and porno theaters... or Class A office space and financial institutions?

  11. WCPerspective

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 14:46

    Key Center was developed by Citicomm Inc., a Toronto-based developer. They proclaimed at the time that the project wouldn't be their only Buffalo development. Still waiting. They also own the southeast corner of Main and Swan and the site of the former convention center parking ramp behind the Hyatt. Both lots are for sale.

    Architect of Key Center- Brisbin Brook Beynon out of Toronto.

    http://www.bbb.ca/

    Key Center is in their online portfolio of projects.

  12. Ross

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 14:49

    The items in The Style Shack window look like the same crap being sold in the few Main St. stores today. My how some things DON'T change in this town.

  13. STEEL

    5 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 15:34

    RPrescop,

    Did your read the story before commenting? It does not sound like it. Why such anger about a discussion of the qualities an urban environment environment. My story said nothing about building small nor did it reference human scale.

    The story is about what is, what was, and what could have been. I can see great value in what was there. I can appreciate the improvement that Key center is and I can envision how much better it could have been. Just because these old Chippewa The neglected for many years should not trigger our hatred of them, and even though what is there now is clean and new we should not accept it is the best we can do.

    As for building small, I would like to point you in the direction of a place called Greenwich Village. An absolutely beautiful collection of small old buildings in the heart of our nation's biggest city. If only Buffalo had a place like that - oops! That is right, IT DID! -Torn down for parking lots. Oh well it was old and those parking lots are a sign of great progress. Good thing Tim Tileman was not around to prevent all that valuable surface asphalt progress.

  14. Ross

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 15:43

    Um STEEL, have you ever been to our own Allentown just north of Downtown Buffalo? I'd definitely compare this neighborhood to our own version of Greenwich Village in NYC. Small, old buildings with a mix of retail and restaurants. Now, BUILD UP DOWNTOWN!

  15. STEEL

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 15:55

    UUm Ross,

    Perhaps we should tear down Allentown because it is too much like a small town.

    Again, the story says nothing against building up downtown. NOTHING! It does however ask us to make critical judgments about what has been done and what could be done. The Key center Towers are an asset to Downtown but they are by NO means the best that could have been built there. Don't sell Buffalo short. By the way, with the vast stretches of emptiness that currently exist downtown Buffalo does not need to teear down its history to build up

  16. DanielSack

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 16:28

    Also lost was the fabulous art deco W.T.Grant Store at the NW corner of Huron and Main Street. Not a small building "RPrescop" and so much better than the bland corner killing bank buildng and the mediocre post modern Fountain Plaza buildings are no match for what used to be there.

    See a photo at http://www.shadesofgray.wnymedia.net/?p=270

    Designed by Alfred Alschuler and Raymond Loewy. Mike at shadesofgray wrote, "Raymond Loewy was one of the most important designers of the 20th century and was often referred to as the “Father of Industrial Design”. Loewy designed everything from household appliances to Studebakers to buildings to streamliner trains."

    Anyone who knows anything about design has heard of Loewy.

    You bet preservationists today would be in court fighting to protect a Loewy designed building (demolished by Larry Quinn - then Commissioner of Community Development, now advocate of Bass Pro).

  17. allthingsbuffalo

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 16:43

    thanks WCP...i've been trying to find who built it for a while

    i think the key towers are beautiful in their own way and is buffalo's only major example of PoMo...loved the neon green roof tops since i first saw them when i was 9.

  18. scooter

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 17:19

    Question for everybody.

    Do you think we'd have the Chippewa that we have today if it weren't for Key towers and the other office construction?

    Think about what Chippewa was prior to Key Towers and such. Old, fairly unusabl e bldgs.....prostitutes.......disinvestment....ect

    These office bldg's brought people.....which in turn created business on Chippewa.

    Looking at the grade level doors and not the rest of Key Towers is a bit unfair. How about the first floor retail....or the skating rink....multiple access points? How about all the people it brings to that section of town?

    Ask the small business in that immediate area if they'd rather have Key Towers and all the people it brings.....or the older broken down buildings that once were.

    Sometimes....urban renewal is a good thing. Sometimes we have to tear down whats old......and build new. Sometimes buidlings just become outdated and unuseable.

  19. WCPerspective

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 17:58

    Considering Chippewa of today is still geared to the after 10 pm crowd, linking the Chippewa 'revival' to the opening of Key Center may be a stretch.

    Ask Mark Goldman if he opened the Calumet in 1990 due to the office workers. I'd be interested in his answer. My bet is that the hotel at Main/Chippewa (underway in 1990, open in 1991) and the investment in the Market Arcade, Sheas and Arcade Cinemas played a bigger role (plus cheap Chippewa real estate prices).

    But yes, Key Center is a bigger generator of commerce and foot traffic than what was previously at the site.

  20. Ross

    4 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 19:53

    What first floor retail? A Donut Shop and a Deli? WOW. ....not impressed.

  21. davvid

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 20:36

    I only wish that those in power will commission bold designs by significant architects in the future. Mark Goldman's article in one of the latest BRising publication described very nicely the process leading to Klienhan's Music Hall. I hope we can manage to do that now in 2007. Cannon doesn't really cut it and neither does KPF.

  22. rlesch999

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 20:41

    What would you like Ross? I cant stand when people just complain about things but never ever have an sugestion. Retail comes in many shapes and sizes and is geared towards the neighborhood. My wife works in M&T Fountain plaza, and she uses the Coffe shop and Deli becasue she needs to eat. She does not really have time to go window shopping for a dress and some art! You cant compare a residential neighborhood to a primarily business area. bottom line downtown retail is dead becasue not many people live there.

  23. scooter

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 21:19

    We should also keep in mind that these buildings are built for a specific use or specific tenant with certain needs. (shipping/recieving - frieght elevators)

    This is a large scale office building. Grade level doors are needed for shipping and recieving. This building would be border line useless without them. So, as ugly as they are, I think the architect did a pretty good job with this building.

    But i think this issue comes with most large scale buildings....

    Liberty Building, Rand, Brisbane, Hotel Lafayette, Convention center, ect... They aren't always walkable or people friendly.

  24. MisterChips

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 22:11

    Great photo, Steel. I never saw this block, having moved here after Fountain Plaza was completed. I, too, am touched by the diversity of uses and storefronts.

    I'll bet that these were locally-owned businesses, and that we destroyed them to accomodate one big (out of town?) tenant. Why that is OK is beyond me.

    Let's agree on ground rules for urban removal: 1) It is the last resort, not the first one and 2) Strengthen functioning tissue, don't amputate it.

  25. STEEL

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 22:40

    There is nothing to defend as far as quality of business that was there (local or not) and the state of the buildings was very low at the time of this picture. We should however be very careful when we plan our buildings as a defense against the city rather than making them part of the city. I was not involved in this project and do not know all of the issues that the designers had to deal with and It is easy to understand the designer's need to mitigate the negatives of (then) Chippewa. However, I would hope that we can push to have buildings that are involved with the people rather than designed to push them away.

  26. Biniszkiewicz

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 15th 2007, 23:36

    It's hard to believe, given the currrent importance of Chippewa, that the service entrance would be placed there rather than Pearl Street.

    But I remember Chippewa as the red light district and can understand the thinking then; it's too bad the thinking just wasn't very prescient. Worth thinking about as we grasp for development (any development) without critical consideration of future desires and needs.

    I bought a place on Johnson Park (not far away from here) in 1990. Many BR commentators regularly lament absence of progress in Buffalo. Progress may not be torrential, but it has been consistent. Downtown is a lot different today (and better) than 20 years ago, or 15 or 10 years ago.

    A replay of the development choices faced here might surface in the 500 block. The structures bounded by Main, Huron, Washington and Mohawk have a similar look and vintage. Some voices have previously suggested this block deserves demolition and new high rise development.

    More recently, there is a movement afoot to attempt rehabs of the existing builidngs. It will be interesting to see what prevails.

    Thanks for the article, Steel.

  27. sbgcity

    3 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 07:50

    "I'll bet that these were locally-owned businesses, and that we destroyed them to accomodate one big (out of town?) tenant. Why that is OK is beyond me."

    Ummmmm- because it leads to JOBS-without which urban renewal is pointless. In the picture shown, you could not concievable house a couple hundred-thousand employees.

    Why are you all so set on keeping things the same, same, same? Great cities allow themselves to grow and change. There is no fear of tearing down a building that doesnt work for the current needs. JOBS is what it is all about.

  28. SLEEPL8

    4 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 09:37

    Who are we kidding...Chippewa still has lots of hookers. You just dont have to pay them anymore. Alot of girls that hang out on Chippewa will sleep with anyone who has money.

  29. coolrobc

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 09:49

    WCP,

    I think that revival of that area has more to with the new construction than not. While most of Chippewa is still geared towards the after 10pm crowd, I'm not sure if this area could have developed into what it currently is without the 9-5 crowd, and their desire for somewhere to go at the end of the day.

  30. Biniszkiewicz

    4 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 10:00

    sbgcity:

    By your logic, it was just fine to tear down some wonderful architecture we lost such as the Erie County Savings Bank (for Main Place Tower), the Larkin building, some others.

    We should be mindful of the urban fabric that we erase or create. What makes one city appealing and walkable where another is cold and uninviting? I'd take downtown Buffalo over Rochester. I'd take it over Charlotte. We still have many gems. There might come a day when 100+ year old buildings are the hippest thing going; small enough in scale that individuals could buy them and convert them and change the nature and scale of a stretch of Main.

    I sell commercial real estate. Two weeks ago, I showed the former Burger King at 495 Main Street (northeast corner Mohawk; asking price $2500/mo. net rent for 5800' or sell at $350,000; make offer). Anyway, I showed it to a family. they live in Clarence. Daughter goes to Nardin. Weekend home in Ellicottville. He owns a company. They travel often. They're thinking: Why live in Clarence when we're in the city every day? They looked at the BK to evaluate it for residential conversion. He liked it best of the buildings they saw, I think (concrete and steel construction, easy to add a third story, etc; great indoor garage potential), she liked the Chinese food place across the street. So that's something they're pursuing (Chris M.'s listing at Hunt).

    I think they have a great idea. I think that whole 500 block could be filled by more of those kinds of investors: individuals putting down roots in downtown. European cities often retain much of their historic character. Newer American cities often lack a historic authenticity.

    If it happens that this block (500 Main/Washington, similar to Key block in Steel's post) is flattened for some new use, so be it. There may be new and better incarnations.

    But maybe it wouldn't be the worst thing for development to be concentrated on restoration/infill here (500 block). It's representative of an era, it's authentic, it's right on Main. It's kind of nice to walk down a street and witness a history lesson. The blight is on its way out because of all the developer investment downtown. Maybe now smaller investors can work on their own pieces of the pie in the 500 block and other smaller buildings scattered around downtown. Not everything should be flattened for a skyscraper so people can pretend they live in LA.

    Lastly, regarding JOBS: Empty office space doesn't generate jobs. Tenants from one building are coming from another, usually. I'm all for recruiting out of town companies and accomodating their real estate needs. But there are many worthy sites downtown with which we ought be able to accomodate any company's needs with new construction.

    Key Center was plus, in my view. I'm glad it's there. I'd make the same trade again here. Chippewa is successful in part because Main Street looks real here. You're in a real downtown. Key is key to that.

    Thank goodness and preservationists, though, that the Theater block wasn't flattened.

    Blocks like that flattened for Key weren't as nice as the theater block. But they could still become an upscale, vibrant part of downtown with savvy investment. Blocks like 500 Main (similar to above) could become great treasures, just as many older structures are in most downtowns throughout most of the first world.

  31. fill

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 11:19

    Oh, I remember well the old Chippewa. It was a total embarassment to the city. I also remember going into a bar on Chippewa located in an ancient building where the Comfort Inn is now. The men's room was located in the cellar and stank like an outhouse. What a hellhole !! Although I support the preservation movement and even put my money where my mouth is, I don't think that we should look back on everything that used to be while wearing rose coloured glasses.

  32. zen

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 12:20

    Hospitable, That's very bold to note that that is where your parents went to pick up hookers. Regardless, I am with the radical fringe of historic preservationists who would like to see this area (as well as the Erie Canal Commercial Slip) turned back to mavens of depravity and licentiousness. Bring back the brothels!

  33. coolrobc

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 14:58

    Zen,

    Good call! That's exactly what we need! brothels on the waterfront. How about a museum on the waterfront dedicated to the history of brothels in Buffalo. Talk about a way to bring in the tourists! Bring the Kids! Fun for the whole family!

    LOL ;-)

  34. davvid

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 15:41

    I think it has nothing to do with preservation necessarily. This might just be about crafting an experience that is extremely engaging and fun. Whats more engaging and fun than sex? Bring sex back to downtown Buffalo. Leave the kids at home and come downtown.

    I remember reading an article somewhere about how in some European city the tv screens in subway stations or Bus stops would play porn after a centain time at night.

    Now we are thinking outside the box!

  35. Bycz

    1 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 15:46

    Thursday in the Square was born on the empty asphalt lot on the corner of Chippewa and Main. It was called Thursday in the Park that first year. The concerts were moved to its current location in year two. It's probably the only time in Buffalo's history that a parking lot, created from a demolition, morphed into something special. Rotary Rink is pretty special too. Still waiting for the Larkin Admin. lot to turn into something.

  36. Biniszkiewicz

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 16th 2007, 17:20

    We should have a red light district. Bars open to 4am. A little gambling. Some girls. We'd get tourists Then. Let's trade on our wild west history. Buffalo: A turn of the century town. The last century, but that's okay, it's authentic. I seriously always did like the idea, too, zen.

    Actually, I do believe consenting adults should be able to do whatever they wish, so long as it causes no one else harm. The government shouldn't be nanny, telling you what you may or may not do, but should regulate the business (like it regulates others; for safety and location--keep it off the streets and in buildings, in a particular district).

  37. RPreskop

    2 ratings12345
    Apr 17th 2007, 19:11

    DanielSack, The old W.T. Grant store was an all right building but all the other old commercial buildings on the Fountain Plaza site were all dilapidated, worthless crap that had to be torn down, there was nothing beautiful or significant about them. As for the new architecture and the spacious plazas on the site today, they are absolutely beautiful and they are definately a major architectural and aesthetic improvement over the old W.T. Grant store and the deteriorating, hideous slums next door to it. You have one valid point about the Bank of America Building, that 10 story building could have been designed much better and it is somewhat drab. But that building was designed by Cannon Design of Grand Island and it is typical of local architectural talent. The other office towers were all designed by major out of town architects and they are among Buffalo's best and most visually appealing buildings. It is very obvious, if you want a beautiful looking new building, hire an out of town architect because these local-yocal architects seriously lack any creativity. This is why I see serious problems with British developer Bashar Issa choosing Cannon Design to design what is going to be Buffalo's tallest building. Cannon has no known skyscraper design experience and he would be smart to choose either a Chicago or New York based architect to design the proposed CityTower on South Elmwood.

  38. Sal

    0 ratings12345
    Apr 18th 2007, 21:20

    These old pictures remind me of the Fisherman's Wharf building which was demolished down the street on Chippewa.

    By the way, I believe the Senecas as a sovereign nation can legally employ prostitutes in our former downtown Buffalo.

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