Buffalo Rising Online

Jan 3rd 2008, 9:06am By Christa Glennie Seychew

One of Allentown's newest restaurants, Lagniappes (pronounced lan-yaps), may be tiny, but the flavors of its predominately New Orleans-inspired menu are big, bold and...well, beautiful. Buffalo Rising contributor Courtney Bajdas told you about cousins Chris and Don Silverstein's spicy venture when they first opened their doors last summer, click here for details.

I had stopped in for a bowl of knee-weakening gumbo on a couple of occasions, but hadn't yet sampled anything from the rest of the menu. The day after Christmas I spotted their “open” sign while driving through Allentown on my way home from the office. It stood out in the quiet and bleak landscape of a city; especially inviting to me after having been holed-up indoors after the long holiday weekend. Lagniappes' hot sandwiches to go would ensure a warm reception from my family upon my return.

Lagniappes is small, but they've managed to squeeze a few tables in along with a pick-up counter, soda machine and a few stacks of Buffalo Rising. The warm rust-colored walls and high-ceilings give this place a cozy feel-- especially with the arctic chill outside. The mardi gras beads scattered about provide a hint to the cuisine as well as the party crowd that flocks here for eats in the wee hours.

The menu lists entrees like creole meatloaf and crab cakes, and sides like corn on the cob, black-eyed peas and macaroni and cheese. A few of the many po' boys offered include barbecue shrimp with bacon, portabella mushrooms with warm, sauteed garlic and spinach, red onion, gorgonzola and provolone and fried oyster or catfish with lettuce, tomato and onion. There are also small plate options like red beans and rice, jamabalaya and a few green salads.

I made away with a large container of gumbo ($7), a pulled pork po' boy with sweet potato fries ($7) and a strip steak sandwich with macaroni salad ($9). I feared that the mile in my cold car before I reached home would wreak havoc on my aromatic treasure, and my driving may have been compromised by my concern. Then, out of the car and up the steps to unfold the package on the dining room table. As I expected, my popularity had increased greatly by simply carrying a grease spattered brown paper parcel.

My eager and salivating youngsters ripped through the fries immediately. I managed to grab a few before the six-year-old could finish them off. Still crisp and sweet, they didn't need an ounce of the honey that had been sent along for the purpose of dipping. The pork sandwich, moist and luscious, required the use of a knife and fork; the portion large enough for two but, in this case, happily enjoyed by three. Covered in sauteed greens and perfectly caramelized onions, the steak sandwich was well-seasoned and tasty—the husband wasn't sharing, but I managed a bite before he caught me.

Thank you Lagniappes, for being open when no one else was, for making fantastic food in a kitchen the size of a mailbox and for making me, if only for a moment, the most popular woman in town.


Lagniappes
244 Allen Street, Buffalo 14201
716.883.3663, delivery available