Buffalo Rising Online

Jun 7th 2008, 9:51am By Todd Schoepflin

Sophia’s – All in the Family

I had breakfast at Sophia’s recently, and it seemed like I was the only one who didn’t know the owner by his first name. Everyone who came through the door greeted him.

It’s not often that the owner is the same person who cooks your meal and brings it to you. But that’s what happened during my visit. When he brought my food I introduced myself and asked if he had a few minutes to talk so that I could interview him for this story. Our conversation had a few breaks because he had to run back and forth to the grill. From what I could see, he was doing all the cooking.

The owner I speak of is Sam Doherty, a 26-year-old who begins many of his work days at 5:00 a.m. He has been the owner since 2000 but has been around the restaurant for many years longer--long enough for him to say, “This restaurant is in my blood.”

As we chatted, people continued to trickle in, each of them saying “Hi Sam” upon entering. When asked to describe his customers, he answered: “Regulars. Chances are, if you come once, you’ll come back.” I can see why. You get good service at this restaurant and you won’t leave hungry. Sophia’s currently offers a breakfast-centered menu and has daily lunch specials.

I tackled the Giambotta, a huge portion of eggs, sausage, onions, and hot peppers. It came with bread that was made at the restaurant. Sam told me he bakes bread nearly every day. He excitedly talked about his plans for the future, which include a new menu, a website, and a catering business. Seems to me that his already long days are going to get longer.

Sam does have a major source of help at his restaurant. There is a very friendly waitress who, like Sam, apparently knows all the customers and genuinely enjoys talking with them. She good-naturedly chatted with me after taking my order. I couldn’t help but notice how nice she was to everyone in the restaurant. When I later asked Sam about her, he said she was a relative. But not just any relative; she's his mother. And the sweet woman’s name? You guessed it...Sophia.

I look forward to visiting again soon so I can check out the new menu options and say hi to Sam. It’s a pleasure to be the customer of someone who works so hard. Sophia’s is on Military Road between Hinman and Kenmore Avenue. Stop in and join the family.